Kayaking on Sweden’s High Coast

Welcome back to our adventure story.

I want to say how grateful I am that you are reading this. So many people feel deprived of freedom right now – we are so limited by this pandemic, that we are reduced to less. Just a reminder – Less is More – focus on what you believe in and nothing else. The feeling of making the best of what you have been given in this life, can be the most humbling of all.

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This is the third installment of our journey along Sweden’s High Coast.

Here we go again! Wednesday, July 15th and on to our last camping destination on the High Coast (Höga Kusten). The north coast of the Baltic Sea is beautiful, and we were lucky to catch glimpses during our drive. I dreamt of our next parking spot, hopefully small and tranquil, and wondered what new and natural wonders we may find.

This is the farthest we have dragged the old camper and she has taken a beating. Bumpy back roads, unwelcome (and unannounced) speed bumps and torrential rains have slowly withered the bindings and holds of this 1980’s treasure. We have gotten almost four years out of her and it has been great to upgrade from a tent. We may have to make a choice next year to upgrade, so that we can continue this adventure.

To get to Snibbens Camping in Rämvik, we drove from the main highway (E4) and the exit is just 2km before the bridge that connects to the northern part of the coast. We decided to travel over it to commemorate our arrival, then we turned back as a sort of ‘been there, done that’ moment. Great idea Andy!

Höga Kusten Brön (High Coast Bridge)

There’s a small pizza restaurant at the entrance with a few free overnight parking spots. Then the road curved around and up into the campground to a locked gate, where the owner greeted us. He seemed a bit stressed. Apparently, the exhausting amount of unprepared travelers showing up in search of a campsite had worn him out.

At the beginning of the pandemic, we were told not to travel outside of Sweden, so of course everyone with a camper or tent decided to take advantage of the summer weather and tried to find a last minute spot. He was very happy to hear about our pre-paid reservation and helped us get situated. The campground is owned and operated by his family, which gives it a personal touch.

Homebase camp

We got a great spot across from the edge of the lake and near the service house, that holds private bathrooms, showers and 2 kitchens. This was one of the best of about 60 parking spots here and our favorite location for the week, hands down. Despite the storm clouds that followed us, we were met with a slow clearing that opened up to blue sky.

Our view of Mörtsjön from our homebase camp.

It felt great to be so close to the water and we couldn’t wait to get in there. We could even walk from homebase to drop in our kayaks.

So here we drop in at Mörtsjön, which means fish lake – a rare, unsavory tasting fish, I am told. The lake was created by runoff from the Baltic Sea. We opened the Android Kayak app and checked the map and found what looked like a creek in the back corner of the lake.

Our camping location + opening to the creek at the left.

The calm water was soothing as we paddled from the shore – straight across to investigate the opposite coast. Huge pine trees grew right to the edge of the water and you could see the exposed roots under the surface.

Andy enjoying the freedom on the lake.

As soon as you get far enough from the shore, there is a sound that replaces the sounds of the campground and the local traffic. It’s hard to explain, but we have witnessed it here on so many lakes in Sweden. It’s the sound of the wilderness sighing.

Paddling with my Naturkompaniet clean-up bag. They gave these out free at the stores last summer – great idea!

The air seemed so fresh and clean and I watched as my paddle tapped the clear water. As we neared towards the corner we could already see the smaller opening in the trees. Surrounded by lily pads and schools of fish, we found a hidden cottage off to the right, where a woman was surprised to see us. We received a friendly wave as we floated by.

Caught in the weeds or the garden of the lake?
A required selfie.

We finally came to rocky, running creek. This part was impassible due to the shallow water, so our hopes for paddling up the creek would end here. But, I was thrilled to set my kayak between two boulders and hop out.

The water was cool and as I climbed along the larger rocks upstream, I caught a brilliant reflection of sun off the water that took my breath away.

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We took our time here, listening to the bubbling pool as if we were relaxing at a spa, knowing we would eventually return to the rest of the world. For now, this was ours. What a fantastic feeling it is to have this experience together. There are no words, just smiles as we observe this humble paradise.

Returning to camp tired, hungry and full of the day’s excitement, we set up to grill fresh meat and veggies and witness the serene sunset. This was my favorite excursion so far and I can’t wait to get back out here on the water. This is living!

Sunset on Mörtsjön.

Thanks for joining us on our journey. Follow us to read our next post as we do some ‘touristing’ in this bountiful vacation destination.

Snibbens Camping – service house.

For more information on Sweden’s High Coast – https://www.hogakusten.com/en

And remember…there is no adventure too small!

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